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{{DISPLAYTITLE:Solar Nodes & Power}}
The remote solar routers carry the mesh across the country. A good build and light broadcasting keep them running through winter.

== Building a solar node ==
* '''Board''': low power, such as a Heltec T114, Seeed XIAO nRF or RAK. Avoid ESP32 boards.
* '''Panel''': 6 W or more, monocrystalline. A sealed 18 V panel with an MPPT controller copes better with grey days than a 5 V USB panel.
* '''Charge controller''': a CN3791 based MPPT module, about £6.
* '''Battery''': about 6600 mAh for a garden node, enough for 10 to 12 dark winter days. Double it for a router.
* '''Battery safety''': identical cells only, and a fuse on each cell.
* '''Enclosure''': IP65 or better, cable gland underneath, antenna on top, base sealed.
* '''Siting''': high, clear view south, panel tilted 25 to 30 degrees.
* '''Admin''': turn on remote administration so you can change settings over the mesh.

Full parts list and detail: [https://docs.google.com/document/d/1jYIfC71NTSiBWMU1QKCfkOeHiO9vLXD1 A beginners guide to building solar nodes] by Jppx.

== Winter power saving ==
In winter the routers run short of power, and the mesh carries several times the traffic it used to. Every fixed node can help by broadcasting less:
* '''Node Info''': every 4 to 6 hours.
* '''Position''': every 4 to 6 hours.
* '''Device and power telemetry''': every 4 to 6 hours.

On Android: Radio Config, then Device (Node Info), Position, and Telemetry. Save each page.

''From [https://scotmesh.uk/d/2 Solar Router Power Conservation] by Jppx.''

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Admin: Meshtastic section from the ScotMesh forum